Sunday 28 December 2008
Trip route
I have had a whole day with wireless internet at the hostel so I have created a trip route. Especially for you who thinks that my blog is not up to date, you can check it out using the first link in my list (to the left).
Christmas in Cartagena
I decided to hang around Cartagena for Christmas with my friends from the boat. It was a hassle to find places to stay during the holiday season so after staying one night in a more basic place and managed to upgrade early in the morning next day, it was convenient to just stay around for a couple of days. Unfortunately there is also the New Year coming up soon so once more, one has to struggle with advance bookings. In situations like this, I certainly don't like Christmas.
Cartagena has been a key port ever since the colonial period and its walls have protected the city from numerous pirate attacks. The old city is relatively unchanged from the old time and the city's past prosperity is witnessed by its many buildings with large balconies.
Christmas was celebrated with a few Christmas meals in the old city. There are many tourist traps here but we managed to find a couple of good restaurants. Normally I settle for cheaper but it was Christmas...
Cartagena has been a key port ever since the colonial period and its walls have protected the city from numerous pirate attacks. The old city is relatively unchanged from the old time and the city's past prosperity is witnessed by its many buildings with large balconies.
Christmas was celebrated with a few Christmas meals in the old city. There are many tourist traps here but we managed to find a couple of good restaurants. Normally I settle for cheaper but it was Christmas...
Michael Kohler
The sailboat was primarily taking four motorbikes and motorbikers from Panama to Colombia as there are no road between the continents. The options are to either hitch with a cargo-boat, take a sailboat of fly. With a motorbike, the sailboat will be the most viable option. We were in total nine people on the boat, all from different countries (Austria, Germany, USA, Canada, Switzerland, Australia, Sweden, Holland and Italy).
One guy I met on board has been touring the world for the past 2.5 years on his bike, which certainly is very impressive. He is now planning to do South America-Africa and a bit of Europe before returning to Switzerland. I wonder how I should be able to save enough money to travel for 3+ years. Any tips? Can I not become Technical Director soon???
http://www.travelpod.com/members/pajas
Here is Michael's impressive journey so far:
One guy I met on board has been touring the world for the past 2.5 years on his bike, which certainly is very impressive. He is now planning to do South America-Africa and a bit of Europe before returning to Switzerland. I wonder how I should be able to save enough money to travel for 3+ years. Any tips? Can I not become Technical Director soon???
http://www.travelpod.com/members/pajas
Here is Michael's impressive journey so far:
Sailing - Caribbean Sea (Part II)
The sail was far from problem-free. Hearing what happened to the other boats, we quickly realised that things could easily go wrong out on the sea in a small boat. It did certainly not help that our boat was a floating dump, which lacked maintenance in most ways. Normally when a boat is not well maintained, it only lacks a bit of paint or cleaning but on this particular boat, things that were not absolutely necessary to make it to Cartagena were not functional at all. In addition to the paint and cleaning that is.
However, after sailing four days along the coast, we decided to cross the ocean to get to Cartagena faster as the wind direction made it possible.
During the trip, we managed to rip two sails, which made it difficult to go with full speed. When the second sail ripped, it did it in such a way that the line holding it up disappeared up in the mast and got stuck. We therefore had to rely a lot on the engine.
Unfortunately, it was no longer possible to check how much diesel was left in the two tanks due to broken gages. The captain had to check the levels with a stick but as they were somewhat cone-shaped we thought it would be almost impossible to estimate the level of the fuel. When the first tank almost finished and the captain wanted to switch to the second, the tank was broken and all the diesel had leaked out. We only found this out later as his official story was that the diesel in the second tank was dirty and could not be used. I guess the captain was worried and did not want to cause panic as the three extra people on board had made food and water supplies very low. We therefore had to cross the sea on half sail with unfavourable wind and with no engine, doing about two knots to saving diesel in order to be able to get to the nearest island with a diesel pump. With a bit more unfavourable wind, we could easily have drifted around on the ocean for a couple of days without engine.
For this reason, the captain was eager to get the front sail to work. He was in fact so keen that he wanted to get winched up in the mast to get the line down, during the journey at open sea. The waves were not merciful and at the top of the mast, the oscillations were severe. Not knowing the seriousness of the situation, we thought it could wait until we anchored outside the island but the captain got up in the mast anyway. In the current weather, the task was also too difficult and he came down in pain after having hit his ribs towards the mast halfway up.
We sailed during all night taking shifts to steer the boat as the autopilot was broken and it had to be steered manually and finally arrived to the island in the afternoon next day. After stocking up on diesel (the captain had only dollars so he was ripped off by the locals on the exchange rate when buying diesel, he was not too happy at that point), we sailed through the night again and arrived to Cartagena at mid-day on the eight day at sea.
As if the problems were never going to stop, one hour before us a super cruiser with 1500 passengers arrived to the port in Cartagena (it sailed past us on the way in) making the customs clearance difficult as they had a mountain with passports to go through before serving us. We had to leave our passports to the captain and get them back the next day. A bit worrying as it was difficult to recall anything that the captain had said since we departed that actually had come true. Fortunately I got my passport back the next day. With the stamp. Viva Colombia.
Below follows some various pictures from the latter part of the sailtrip, until arriving in Cartagena.
However, after sailing four days along the coast, we decided to cross the ocean to get to Cartagena faster as the wind direction made it possible.
During the trip, we managed to rip two sails, which made it difficult to go with full speed. When the second sail ripped, it did it in such a way that the line holding it up disappeared up in the mast and got stuck. We therefore had to rely a lot on the engine.
Unfortunately, it was no longer possible to check how much diesel was left in the two tanks due to broken gages. The captain had to check the levels with a stick but as they were somewhat cone-shaped we thought it would be almost impossible to estimate the level of the fuel. When the first tank almost finished and the captain wanted to switch to the second, the tank was broken and all the diesel had leaked out. We only found this out later as his official story was that the diesel in the second tank was dirty and could not be used. I guess the captain was worried and did not want to cause panic as the three extra people on board had made food and water supplies very low. We therefore had to cross the sea on half sail with unfavourable wind and with no engine, doing about two knots to saving diesel in order to be able to get to the nearest island with a diesel pump. With a bit more unfavourable wind, we could easily have drifted around on the ocean for a couple of days without engine.
For this reason, the captain was eager to get the front sail to work. He was in fact so keen that he wanted to get winched up in the mast to get the line down, during the journey at open sea. The waves were not merciful and at the top of the mast, the oscillations were severe. Not knowing the seriousness of the situation, we thought it could wait until we anchored outside the island but the captain got up in the mast anyway. In the current weather, the task was also too difficult and he came down in pain after having hit his ribs towards the mast halfway up.
We sailed during all night taking shifts to steer the boat as the autopilot was broken and it had to be steered manually and finally arrived to the island in the afternoon next day. After stocking up on diesel (the captain had only dollars so he was ripped off by the locals on the exchange rate when buying diesel, he was not too happy at that point), we sailed through the night again and arrived to Cartagena at mid-day on the eight day at sea.
As if the problems were never going to stop, one hour before us a super cruiser with 1500 passengers arrived to the port in Cartagena (it sailed past us on the way in) making the customs clearance difficult as they had a mountain with passports to go through before serving us. We had to leave our passports to the captain and get them back the next day. A bit worrying as it was difficult to recall anything that the captain had said since we departed that actually had come true. Fortunately I got my passport back the next day. With the stamp. Viva Colombia.
Below follows some various pictures from the latter part of the sailtrip, until arriving in Cartagena.
Sailing - San Blas Archipelago (Part I)
The sailing-adventure was a diverse experience. This was one of the last boats going as it was the end of the sailing season and no boats can make it from Panama to Colombia in January-March due to the strong headwinds. Our Italian captain therefore warned us that if we were unlucky with the weather, we may be a day or so delayed from the normal five-day, four-nights itinerary.
The first days we went to the San Blas archipelago and anchored outside small pretty islands during the nights. We did not encounter rough weather but headwinds, which made it impossible to sail across the open sea, the shortest route to Cartagena. Therefore, we decided to travel the longer route along the coast. This gave us the opportunity to experience the most beautiful islands in the Caribbean Sea during four afternoons and nights.
By now it was clear that it was certainly going to take longer than planned (were still far from Cartagena) but as the captain had to feed us as long as we were on board (fixed price), we did not complain too much.
On board we were originally five passengers, four motorbikes plus the captain. However, on the third day we got three more passengers from other boats that departed just before us. These were from a sailboat with a Swedish captain. He had been heavily drunk while sailing and managed to go on the reef twice and broke the mast on his boat. The passengers were therefore stranded on an island due to a damaged boat and we picked up two of them. Another passenger also joined, stranded from another boat with a Spanish captain.
Our boat now started to get full. Some passengers had to sleep on deck due to lack of space in the cabin. As long as there is good weather, sleeping on deck is normally a very pleasant experience; it is warm and fresh and there are no mosquitos etc but unfortunately there were some showers every night. I therefore sticked to my little bench inside the boat.
Following are some pictures from the Caribbean sail.
Deserted Caribbean Island
Another island beach
The Italian captain putting the sail up
Sunset at a Caribbean island
The first days we went to the San Blas archipelago and anchored outside small pretty islands during the nights. We did not encounter rough weather but headwinds, which made it impossible to sail across the open sea, the shortest route to Cartagena. Therefore, we decided to travel the longer route along the coast. This gave us the opportunity to experience the most beautiful islands in the Caribbean Sea during four afternoons and nights.
By now it was clear that it was certainly going to take longer than planned (were still far from Cartagena) but as the captain had to feed us as long as we were on board (fixed price), we did not complain too much.
On board we were originally five passengers, four motorbikes plus the captain. However, on the third day we got three more passengers from other boats that departed just before us. These were from a sailboat with a Swedish captain. He had been heavily drunk while sailing and managed to go on the reef twice and broke the mast on his boat. The passengers were therefore stranded on an island due to a damaged boat and we picked up two of them. Another passenger also joined, stranded from another boat with a Spanish captain.
Our boat now started to get full. Some passengers had to sleep on deck due to lack of space in the cabin. As long as there is good weather, sleeping on deck is normally a very pleasant experience; it is warm and fresh and there are no mosquitos etc but unfortunately there were some showers every night. I therefore sticked to my little bench inside the boat.
Following are some pictures from the Caribbean sail.
Deserted Caribbean Island
Another island beach
The Italian captain putting the sail up
Sunset at a Caribbean island
Saturday 27 December 2008
Time to go sailing
The journey from Costa Rica to the location of the sailing boat in northern Panama took 26h. The last part of the trip went through small backroads along the Caribbean coast of Panama. The region was frequented by chicken buses and the interesting and welcoming landscape saw small farms, relaxed villages and a very easy pace of life.
When finally arriving at Puerto Lindo, a little fishing village on the norhtern coast of Panama with a Yacht-club (it sounds more grand than it really is), there was not much to do than to sleep, get in touch with the other passengers and get ready for an early start next day.
When finally arriving at Puerto Lindo, a little fishing village on the norhtern coast of Panama with a Yacht-club (it sounds more grand than it really is), there was not much to do than to sleep, get in touch with the other passengers and get ready for an early start next day.
Monday 8 December 2008
Pictures from Central America
Six of my pictures from various places in Central America are posted on http://mewpictures.blogspot.com/
Don't forget to vote for one!
/Mattias
Don't forget to vote for one!
/Mattias
Sunday 7 December 2008
Spanish
nSome people have complained that my blog is not up to date. In fact, it has been pretty much up to date all the time, its just that I didn't travel to any new places for a while as I was busy studying Spanish, and I didn't experience anything funny I could write about. When I have something of relevance that is worth putting in the blog, I will update it accordingly. And there are many more stories coming, I promise. Until then, you have to shut your mouth and wait.
Sailing
Soon I will head off for a 5-day sailing journey across the Caribbean sea, the classic routes once fared by Spanish gallons and pirates in their hunt for power and gold. I will set sail in Panama on the 15th of December and sail via the San Blas archipelago to Cartagena, Colombia.I hope I won't miss the boat. The adventure is awaiting...
The Panama Canal
The Panama Canal, one of the greatest engineering achievements of the 20th century, dominates pretty much everything in this country. The canal generates one third of the whole country's economy and has been the source of conflicts, wars, political struggles and is in fact the reason Panama is an independent country at all.
A visit to the Canal Area is therefore well worthwhile and the more one learns about the canal, the more intriguing it gets.
Here is a short summary of the canal's history:
The ideas of a canal between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans was broached by the Spanish in 1524. The best location for a canal would be through Nicaragua or through Panama. Any serious attempt on building a canal was however not seen until 1881, when the French started building a canal after having obtained the rights from Colombia (Panama was then a part of Colombia), much to USA's chagrin, who was seeking sole rights to a canal. However, after eight years of engineering problems and 22000 workers dead in malaria and yellow fever, the company finally went bankrupt. The French considered the project impossible and sold it to USA, who later also gained the rights for a canal in Nicaragua. It is said that the final decision for actually building it in Panama was due to an old church in Panama City. The fact that it still stood there meant that the area was not sensitive for earthquakes, which was a problem in Nicaragua.
Colombia, however, was not keen on letting USA into their territory and refused to accept the transfer of the canal treaty. As a result, USA set up a revolutionary junta and backed it with money and weapons. When it claimed independence from Colombia. US warships prevented Colombian forces from even reaching land (there is no road, remember?) and Panama became a nation heavily dominated by the USA.
The canal was successfully built between 1904-1914 and the following 60 years were filled with conflicts related to the domination of the canal zone, which was considered US territory and became an American colony with homes, businesses and english language schools. Senator John McCain (still remember him?) was actually born in the canal zone in Panama.
Panama finally gained complete ownership of the canal on 31st December 1999.
The Panama Canal has three sets of locks. Here is the Miraflores locks where some huge vessels are crossing the canal. Ships pay a fee relative to their weight. The lowest fee of $0.36 was paid by Richard Halliburton who swam through in 1928 and the highest fee was paid by a massive Norwegian cruise ship, which crossed earlier this year.
A visit to the Canal Area is therefore well worthwhile and the more one learns about the canal, the more intriguing it gets.
Here is a short summary of the canal's history:
The ideas of a canal between the Pacific and Atlantic oceans was broached by the Spanish in 1524. The best location for a canal would be through Nicaragua or through Panama. Any serious attempt on building a canal was however not seen until 1881, when the French started building a canal after having obtained the rights from Colombia (Panama was then a part of Colombia), much to USA's chagrin, who was seeking sole rights to a canal. However, after eight years of engineering problems and 22000 workers dead in malaria and yellow fever, the company finally went bankrupt. The French considered the project impossible and sold it to USA, who later also gained the rights for a canal in Nicaragua. It is said that the final decision for actually building it in Panama was due to an old church in Panama City. The fact that it still stood there meant that the area was not sensitive for earthquakes, which was a problem in Nicaragua.
Colombia, however, was not keen on letting USA into their territory and refused to accept the transfer of the canal treaty. As a result, USA set up a revolutionary junta and backed it with money and weapons. When it claimed independence from Colombia. US warships prevented Colombian forces from even reaching land (there is no road, remember?) and Panama became a nation heavily dominated by the USA.
The canal was successfully built between 1904-1914 and the following 60 years were filled with conflicts related to the domination of the canal zone, which was considered US territory and became an American colony with homes, businesses and english language schools. Senator John McCain (still remember him?) was actually born in the canal zone in Panama.
Panama finally gained complete ownership of the canal on 31st December 1999.
The Panama Canal has three sets of locks. Here is the Miraflores locks where some huge vessels are crossing the canal. Ships pay a fee relative to their weight. The lowest fee of $0.36 was paid by Richard Halliburton who swam through in 1928 and the highest fee was paid by a massive Norwegian cruise ship, which crossed earlier this year.
Panama
Panama is the most eastern country in Central Amerca and hence the last country before hitting South America. Between Central and South America, there is no road, only rain forest and mountain passes so to get to the continent, one has to either fly, take a boat or hike through the forest. The latter option is not recommended by anyone as it is a high-risk project and it is not only possible, but also very likely, that you will get robbed of all your belongings along the way as not even the police dare to enter this area.
Panama is a tiny country famous for:
1) The Panama Canal;
2) The Panama Hat (which for some weird reason is made in Ecuador and not Panama);
3) The palindrome "A man a plan a canal panama"; and
4) Panama City, which is the only capital city that has got a rain forest within the city boundary.
Unfortunately, I have not seen anything like the environment that is featured in the Panama scenes of "Prison Break". I wonder where that was shot. And as Panama is not more exciting than this, I have nothing more to write on the subject.
Panama city - the skyline
Panama is a tiny country famous for:
1) The Panama Canal;
2) The Panama Hat (which for some weird reason is made in Ecuador and not Panama);
3) The palindrome "A man a plan a canal panama"; and
4) Panama City, which is the only capital city that has got a rain forest within the city boundary.
Unfortunately, I have not seen anything like the environment that is featured in the Panama scenes of "Prison Break". I wonder where that was shot. And as Panama is not more exciting than this, I have nothing more to write on the subject.
Panama city - the skyline
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