Monday 19 January 2009

Budget-check

If I would buy a flight and travel home in about four to five days, I would have spent the same amount of money on my stay in the Americas as Kevin spent on his per-person honeymoon, flights included. Not mentioning any sums, that may illustrate the low level of luxury that I am currently experiencing. However, I will not have made it to the Galapagos, which Kevin did. Visiting those islands is like drilling a hole in your wallet and let the money drip out as you go. Maybe next time I will be loaded enough for Galapagos and Easter Island.

The Sanctuary in Las Lajas

The Sanctuary in Las Lajas is a neo-gothic church built between 1926-1944 on a bridge over a river gorge. It seems quite strange to construct a church on a bridge (or more correct construct a bridge with a Chuch on it) but it is Colombians we are talking about here. The story tells that the image of the Virgin Mary appeared on a vertical rock in the gorge, about 45 m above the river, and what does one have to do at the place Virgin Mary appears? I think you guessed it; build a church!

The building was constructed at such height that the vertical rock now forms the main altar in the church. The sanctuary is visited by hoards of pilgrims every year and an ever-growing list of supposedly occurred miracles is attributed the place. Who knows, maybe it really is the power of Virgin Mary?

But personally, after having seen it, I think would have given up before I laid the first brick.


Pictures: Santuario de Las Lajas






Around Colombia on 60,000 pesos

I decided that after San Agustin, it was enough of Colombia and looked into my wallet: I found 60,000 pesos, or around £20.00. I did not particularly want go to the ATM again and pay an enormous withdrawal fee for a small sum so I wanted to make the 60,000 pesos last until the border.

It was certainly going to be a challenge as it had to be enough for two days of travelling (Pasto-Ipiales-the border), some long-distance buses, a necessary overnight in Pasto and a short detour to the sanctuary in Las Lajas, which I really really wanted to see before I left.

Not knowing the exact prices of buses, rough estimations showed that I probably would have enough money to buy some food the remaining two days.

Unfortunately, the journey to Pasto cost 2,000 more than estimated, I was ripped off on 1,000 when buying the bus ticket to Ipiales and I had also underbudgeted the cost for the guesthouse with 5,000. That evening it did not look too bright but thanks to a higher force, I managed to find an increadibly cheap street-snack (1000) in Pasto (meat with potatoes) that saved me lots on the dinner. Also, with some newfound coins in my jacket pocket and a super cheap bake-fried potato-stuff (500) for breakfast, I was back in business.

I arrived to Ipiales the following day, paid 2000 for storing the luggage a couple of hours and although the colectivo to Las Lajas cost 300 more than estimated one way, I had enough money left to check internet for hostels in Ecuador, buy a little water and eat an Arepa (street snack again) for lunch. And as if that was not enough, I left Colombia with around 500 pesos in souvenir coins.

I was laughing all border-money-changers in their annoying faces. Changing Money? No, no tengo nada. Piss off.


A couple of pictures from Pasto

San Agustin

Long before the Europeans came to Latin America, the region around San Agustin attracted a mystic group of people who came here to bury their dead. They were honoured with magnificent statues and tombs have been excavated in many sites spread around in a vast area. The rolling hills, the magnificent river gorge and the lush forests must have seemed like a good place to depart for the afterlife and San Agustin is truly beautiful. The best way to tour the sites of interest is by jeep as the distances are too far to effectively be made on foot.

The area also features the Bordones fall, the second highest waterfall on the continent after the Angel falls in Venezuela.

San Agustin is not too far from Popayán as the crow flies but seems awfully remote due to long shaky journeys on primitive roads across the mountains.












First row from left:

1) The river valley around River Magdalena

2) Occasionally, everyone had to get off the bus to make sure it did not get stuck in mud when passing certain road sections

3) A tomb site featuring some interesting statues


Second row from left:

4) Mattias intruding a tomb, surely catching all sorts of bad spells cast by the ancient civilisations

5) The Bordones fall

"Danger - Bridge in bad shape"

Ever wondered what you would do if you drove up to a bridge with the above warning sign? In the Andes, Colombia, there are plenty of these bridges. I am not quite sure what difference the signs do because everyone has to ignore them, be a car driver, a bus driver or a lorry driver with a load of cows. Even the sugar cane-lorries.

If the bridge now would break and you fall down in the ravine and die, you can at least not come back and claim that you weren't warned so it may be related to liability. But most likely you would be dead anyway so it would not matter so much.

Turning back is not really a choice either because of two reasons; 1) There may not be an alternative road that goes there, or 2) If there is an alternative it will surely take you 10-15 hours to go around the mountains and you are likely to come across more bad-shape bridges there anyway.

So in conclusion, if you die its your own fault except if you are a bus passenger, then you have to blame the driver. This thought made me realise how little control you have of your own fate when travelling by buses in this part of the world and traffic accidents are not directly uncommon. For example, when you go to the bus terminal to buy tickets in Colombia, the companies are required to display a board with statistics of number of accidents, number of seriously injured and number of killed people. All so that people should be able to choose the safest bus companies.

Argentina is the leader country in traffic accidents on the continent, where about 20 people per day are killed on the roads. Soon we are there...

Sunday 18 January 2009

Whitewashed city

Popayán is one of Colombias most beautiful old cities, saved from the touristic tart-ups and has almost completely retained its colonial character with streets lined with white buildings, imposing churches and monasteries.

This place would be really pleasant if it wasn't for the amount of traffic and noisy buses causing traffic jams in almost every street corner together with the hectic taxis desperately trying to make their way forward on the narrow roads between street stalls and pedestrians. All this adds elements of noise, pollution, stress and unpleasantness to the city stroll.

I therefore guess Popayán would be best visited during the weekends.

Breast implants and salsa

I stopped for a while in Cali, the biggest city in south-west Colombia, famous for salsa and plastic surgery. Although there is not much in the area that will keep tourists stay for any considerable amount of time I thought I could keep myself entertained for at least 2-3 days as the distances are long and night-buses are an exhausting means of transport in this region. After checking out the colonial centre, a few not-so-special churches and plazas, the 'Silicon Valley' (a commercial centre that has not got its nickname for its relation to computing) I saw myself failing my mission the second day and left to Popayán a few hours to the south.

On another one of all those endless public holidays in Colombia, Cali on the was a quiet experience with empty streets, no traffic, closed shops and the occacional policeman looking extremely bored while patroling the neighbourhood.

Medellin

Medellin is the traditional centre of drug cartels in Colombia. The government has recently cleaned up the place and with the killing of Pablo Escobar, the streets are more or less safe again.

Medellin has afforded building a modern Metro, developed science centres and with industrial and commercial interests, the city is quickly gaining terrain towards a pleasant and modern top-notch metropolis.

An interesting initiative is the introduction of the "Metrocable". As the city is located in a valley, the Metro is mainly going along the river (and not making it up to the villages on the hills), the Metrocable is a cablecar system with stations supposed to connect low-income neighbourhoods with the centre. The Metrocable was the main thing I wanted to see and experience on my detour to Medellin.











1. Medellin is also home to what probably is the most massive brick-church on the continent built with 1.2 million bricks

2. Medellin is the birth-place of Fernando Botero, featuring a wonderful museum with a vast collection of art.

3. The metro-cable

4. A metro-cable station

Monday 12 January 2009

Birthday party and madness

Time to venture into Bogotá again, the mighty capital of Colombia. I arrived early in the morning with the night bus and managed to transport myself into the historic centre and find a hostel, all before the morning rush hour.

I already know most of the sights in Bogotá (as I visited Carolina's wedding three years ago) and did not have much business there apart from checking out the Botero museum again (my second favourite artist) and to meet up with Carolina, who was spending her Christmas and New Year in Bogotá with her parents and husband. This was very convenient as I was carrying unnecessary weight and wanted to get some stuff transported back to the UK.

Bogotá was much the same city as last time I was there apart from some changes in the Transmilenio (the city's bus rapid transport system) that had converted it from a stright-forward easy-to-understand-approach to something more complicated that even caused the civil engineer himself to have serious issues with finding the right bus. Other noticeable improvements were a face-lift in the historic centre and improved policing/safety in a city that three years ago suffered from all sorts of crimes. Colombia's president Uribe has taken the hard way and improved the situation considerably, fearlessly clashing down on the whole range from guerilla activity and organised crimes to petty theft.

So one night I was told to bring the stuff and come over to their house. I vaguely remembered the way to get there from the Transmilenio station but finally managed to find the right street in the dark. The day, it was Carolina's mother's birtyday so apart from me, all sorts of random relatives turned up in nice clothes to greet her. There was the whole shebang with presents and cake and grandmothers and God knows what. I may have been slightly off the formal dresscode with my rebel T-shirt and half-dirty jeans (and no present) but nevermind, the cake was good.

I was kind of glad to see the same people I met at the wedding and they all seemed to remember me. My favourite character turned up again; Roy, an old German pensioneer living in Los Angeles married to a Colombian woman and still beginner in the Spanish language. Now he visited Colombia again for the first time since three years.

Another surprise was waiting for me there. When packing up my stuff before I left the place of Carolina's sister in Barranquilla three years ago, I managed to forget a plastic bag with washing. These clothes had been saved (!) and unfortunately, given to me in this visit. This was very ironic, as I just wanted to get there to get rid of things, not get more stuff. First when I saw the bag I was however very excitied because one of the items I forgot (a Sweden football replica jersey that I paid over £45.00 for) I had missed very much. The replacement-shirt (a cheap e-Bay copy made in China of poor quality) didn't quite make up for the loss. However, to my big disappointment, the bag only contained some lousy t-shirts, a thick towel and underwear. Bastards!

Wednesday 7 January 2009

"Mattias is never coming back"

The office-rumours claiming that "Mattias is never coming back" got themselves a kick in the testicles when Mattias envisaged a final return date.

Take that, morons.

Girón

Only a few kilometres outside Bucaramanga, a large modern metropolis along the Bogotá-Caracas road, there is a colonial par-excellence town called Girón.

Girón was a convenient day stop while waiting for the overnight 21:30 departure to Bogotá as Bucaramanga itself does not offer a load of touristic sights or things to do.

Some pictures from Girón below:

Not much rest

After taking the night bus to Mérida with not much sleep, done some sightseeing in the morning, spent the whole afternoon on buses to the border, spent the evening doing exit formalities, almost fainted in the one-hour long passport queue on the Colombian side and finally managed to catch a minibus the final 12km into the bus station in Cúcuta, Mattias the optimist wanted to find another night bus to Bogotá, the capital of Colombia.

(Un)Fortunately there were no available departures on the day so I could get some sleep in Cúcuta before it was time to wake up at 5am to look for buses again.

I think I will need a holiday after this trip.

Tuesday 6 January 2009

Chavez

Venezuela is seriously screwed-up and it is all thanks to this man, Sr Hugo Chavez, the dictator-like president of the country.

Chavez is a left-wing socialist and perhaps the most extreme result of the red social winds that currently are blowing through many Latin American countries.

Hugo Chavez strongly opposes globalisation, and the politics of United States and big corporations. In the western world, Chavez has gained much critisism for his attempts to state-control key-elements of the Venezuelan economy, for example throwing out many American oil-companies. His opposition to USA has certainly given him many enemies but also some friends and close relations with countries such as Russia and Iran.

Chavez, as most social leaders, speaks to the poor people of the country and has gained a strong support amongst the low-income class.

Apart from securing more and more power, Chavez has unfortunately made little success in making the country safe. There are today more poor people and more violence and murders in the country, a trend that seams to continue. Caracas, the capital, counts to one of the world's most dangerous cities.

Apart from making life difficult for travellers in terms of security, Chavez has also put a strict control on the exchange rate. This has led to a huge black market of currencies in the country and there are in practial terms two different exchange rates; one official that banks use and one unofficial that rules on the streets. I don't carry huge stashes of money with me while travelling, only use ATMs whenever I need cash. After having withdrawn money a couple of times, I realised that everything in this country was dead-expensive, around double of what I would pay in Colombia.

This is due to the exchange-rate trick. If you are travelling to Venezuela, make sure you bring enough cash with you in dollars, euros or colombian pesos to last for your whole stay. When you change foreign currency on the street you will get about double the amount in Venezuelan Bolivares compared to changing in a bank or withdrawing from an ATM. Paying the double price for everything didnt sound too well to my ears, so I decided to limit my stay in Venezuela and go back to my dear Colombia sooner than expected.

There doesn't appear to be a limit to how much Chavez can annoy someone.

Mérida

Mérida is Venezuela's adventure sports capital. It is located in the Andean mountains and offers a range of activities such as for example climbing, hiking, trekking, white-water rafting, paragliding and other forms of insanity. There are even paragliders painted onto the city's garbage trucks. That is dedication.

For anyone visiting Mérida, there is a cable car that can take you up to the top of a mountain in a few stages. This is the world's longest cable-car system so I was looking forward to checking out how it is like up there.

However, to my great disappointment, the cable-car was temporarily closed for service so I decided to screw this MFSOAB-city and move on the very same day I arrived. This was possible as I arrived early in the morning with a nightbus and just stowed my luggage away in the bus station while checking the city out. Normally, in holiday periods, it is difficult to find accommodation too early in the day before people have had a chance to check out.


Coro

Close to the north coast of Venezuela is the charming little city Coro. It is a student centre and demonstrates a rich portfolio of colonial character. The colonial remains in Venezuela are however in general less significant than in the neighbouring Colombia but the place is still worth a visit.

The area around Coro is very dry and outside the city is a desert landscape located, containing sand dunes of some 'mini-Saharan' style, of up to 30 metres high.

Monday 5 January 2009

Maracaibo

Maracaibo is the Venezuelan oil industry's nerve centre. It is a large industrial city of 1.5 million people and the only reason I went here was that I arrived late and had to break the journey up. Unfortunately, the timing was a bit bad as it was just before the New Year. All Venezuelan's take holidays during the Christmas/New Year periods so after having paid the taxidriver a small fortune for driving me around to different cheap hotels (that were full), I decided to screw everything and pay another small fortune for the wedding suite that was the only vacant room I could find. That fortune was approximaely £20.

Maracaibo mainly consists of vast boring suburbs and for visitors, there is only one street in the centre that contains some parks, plazas and monuments. The city can easily be visited in two hours so after breakfast, sightseeing, check-out and two km walking(!) to the bus station with a too heavy backpack (screw all taxi drivers), I left Maracaibo with the intention to never come back. Ever.

Thursday 1 January 2009

"Por Puestos"

Por Puestos is a silly invention and is a cross between a bus and a taxi. It is a common means of public transportation in Venezuela and they are basically old US made-cars that has a fixed route and depart whenever all (often 5) seats are full.

I travelled by por puesto from the border town of Maicao in Colombia to Maracaibo, Venezuela. I imagine that it would be more cost-effective to run a bus instead of a dozen por puestos, but for the extra money you pay you will often get there quicker and it may even be more comfortable (and it gives more people a job).

In my case, it was however the opposite. Crossing the border just before the New Year, when everyone is on holiday, took 2-3 hours more than anticipated (queues) and after an already long journey without food, I felt less good. It did not get better of the hectic discussions that took place in the vehicle. Putting five passengers together in a car makes a more personal atmosphere compared to a bus, so people normally pass time by conversations; and the ever-lasting topic to discuss in this country is whether or not the highly controversal president Hugo Chavez is good or bad leader.

To my great disappointment, there were two passengers that hated Chavez in the car, and two (plus the driver) that absolutely loved him. I found out that listening to three people shouting in the mouths of each other, trying to make their point at the same time, is not a good medicine for headache.

My "Por Puesto" vehicle. This could be a nice classic car in any other country but as everything else in Venezuela, its falling apart as it goes.

Taganga

I visited Taganga, Santa Marta on my trip three years ago. However, it seemed to be a perfect stop to break a journey to Venezuela, so I stayed a couple of nights to check the beach out and to hike in the nearby hills.

Taganga is today an important scuba-diving centre in Colombia and during the holiday period, it was full of people. It was actually so full that it was almost difficult to enjoy the stay there. In particular if one is thinking of going to the beach. Furthermore, most cheap accommodations were filled up.

Some pictures from the area is posted below.