Quito

So finally I arrived to Ecuador, the country famous for not so much apart from the Galapagos Islands. I crossed the border quite late in the day and had to choose between arriving in Quito (the capital) late at night or overnight at the border city and continue the next day. On arriving at the terminal in the border city, someone shouted “Quito – leaving now!”, which I interpreted as a sign and jumped on the bus. I arrived to a hostel just before midnight after paying the taxi some kind of a mystical “night-fare” that involved the taxi not using the taximeter (grrr).

Quito is a lovely city that certainly got its own character. It is located in a valley surrounded by volcanoes and the setting itself is magnificent. Quito is focused around two centres; the new town with modern restaurants, fancy hotels, pricy bars, cafés and shopping contra the old town (Unesco World Heritage Site since 1978) with narrow streets, imposing churches, traditional eateries, blind guitarists, roast pigs, indigenous vendors, a variety of smells, legless accordion players and much more. What is common between the two centres? – Not much, apart from maybe beggars and thieves.

The old town, thanks to massive policing, is safe until around 22:00, after which you shouldn’t walk outside. The new town, where I was staying, is only safe to around 19:00 or just after dark. It was quite interesting to see all suspicious people come out every night, sneaking around checking out parked cars and people walking by. I encountered a few on my evening strolls to the pizza take-away place and I would easily give a penny for their thoughts.

I have neither during my trip stayed at a hostel where I have heard so many people getting mugged or got cameras stolen as in Quito. Muggings were, however, in almost all cases due to stupidity, for example people walking back drunk from bars after midnight and not taking a taxi. And camera theft, which seems to be a local specialty, almost always occurred during the day in the historic centre. Someone will spot tourists walking around taking pictures, check in which pocket they put the camera and then follow this guy until a crowded opportunity makes it possible to discreetly pickpocket him or, slightly less discreetly, use a steal-and-run approach.

But practicing common sense and carefulness, there is no reason why anything should go wrong here and you can, just like me, enjoy a few magical days in one of the most intriguing and vibrant old cities on the continent. If London is punk, Quito is rock’n’roll.

Pictures from Quito:
1) Beautiful colonial buildings
2) The magnificent main square in the old town
3) Large plazas
4) Beautifully decorated churches